FEATURE LEATHER Volume. 08

国内皮革産業の振興を図る日本皮革産業連合会（JLIA）が掲げてきた「広義での業界サポート」が成果を上げている。ここ数年でレザーやそれに伴うファッション業界は激変し、グローバリゼーションの中で日本の立ち位置も変化が求められている。安価な皮革製品がアジア等から輸入され、さらに人件費の安い中国へ生産委託するメーカーも多くなってきた。一方で同団体は、国産皮革及び皮革製品のＰＲ、情報提供、技術者・販売員等の教育、エコレザーの普及など、広く業界を支援。国内外に向け、日本の皮革及び皮革製品を認知させながら業界の発展を目指している。また、施策として重点を置いてきたのが「人材養成」だ。JLIAの若生智仁氏は「数年前までは、職人の高齢化という問題から、若い技術者の育成に重点を置いてきた。しかし、技術者とは１年や2年で育つものではなく、且つ、企業が欲する人材となるには複数年の事業計画を組み、地道な継続が必要となる。近年は、売場における正しい知識の伝達が重要と考え販売員への研修、消費者やバイヤーへの情報提供の拠点となる常設ショールームの設置を計画するなど、多岐にわたって日本の皮革及び皮革製品を訴求する必要がある」と語る。特定の企業に利益を供与するのではなく、業界全体の浮上を狙うJLIAの具体策はどのように成果を上げたのだろうか。業界やマーケットに沿った形でないと、施策を打っても意味はない。国内の有力バイヤーに審査を依頼した「レザーアワード」は、参加者のモチベーションを上げ、さらにビジネスを意識させるのに効果的だった。グランプリの受賞者は国内の傘下企業と連携した生産体制の構築や、タンナーと素材の共同開発をする程に活躍し、今年度においては皮革素材の産地（兵庫県）で靴作りを行うデザイナーがグランプリを受賞。タンナーとの接点・交流が広がるといった“アワード効果”が報告されている。また、作品のバリエーションが広がり、加工や表現方法も進化。若いデザイナーが多数参加したほか、付加価値を商品ベースに乗せる意味でも成功した。さらに販売員研修も地道に成果を上げている。松屋銀座店で行った研修では「皆、真摯に取り組んでいた。皮革製品のケアについてはもちろんだが、素材別の性質や特徴も講師に聞いており、その熱心さに手応えを感じた」（若生氏）。意外に知られていなかった特性を明記し、教育に有効な“教本”も実践的にグレードアップさせている。レザーウエアやブーツ、ハンドバッグといった使用する商品によってどの革を使うのかといった例を分かりやすく解説。ユーザーからの質問が多かった革靴のケア、保管方法も掲載した。レザーの正しい知識を広げることで、マーケット拡大の相乗効果を狙う。消費者もレザーに対する見識が深くなりつつあり、手入れをしながらレザーのエイジングを楽しむ人、クイックなトレンドを求める人、新しい商品を創造する人が相まって「日本らしい、独自の皮革文化を育てていくのではないか」（若生氏）という。

“Industry support in the broaden meaning”, which is promoted by Japan leather and Leather goods Industries Association (JLIA), which aims to promote leather industry has been successful. In recent years, the leather industry and other fashion sectors have faced drastic changes and the stance of Japanese leather industry is needed to adapt in the globalization process. Cheap leather products are imported from Asian countries and the product manufactured in China for their low cost labor; this has become the ultimate business model. The organization (JLIA) has supported the leather industry widely ranging from marketing genuine Japanese leather and products, sharing industry news, providing training program for technician and salesperson, and popularization of eco-friendly raw leather. They aim to develop a better awareness of the leather industry not only domestically but also abroad. Also they make a special effort to human resources development as a policy. Mr. Tomohito Wakou of the JLIA said, “We started few years ago to focus on the training of young artisans from the problem of aging with long-term business strategy. Recently, however we need to promote Japanese leather variously with the training of salesperson and setup of a showroom for the leather products.” How the specific measures taken by JLIA, which are not driven by the gain of profits for companies but for the well being of the entire industry, proved to be successful? A measure makes no sense unless it fits to the industry and market. “The leather award” that was reviewed by leading buyer in Japan and abroad increased the participant’s motivation and the award was also effective to make them conscious of business. The Grand Prize winner jointly-developed the raw material with tanner, and developed production system. This year’s winner is a shoemaker in Hyogo, major producing region of Japanese leather materials, and observed as bridging designers and industries through “The leather award.” Also, the effect of the award brought leather products to many product variations and the progress of process and style. Many young designers participated and it brought the success in adding value to the products. Moreover, the training of salespersons also has been contributing in a positive way. Mr. Wakou said, “All salesperson were seriously involved; asking their instructor not only about the care of leather products but also inquiring about the nature and characteristic of each leather during the training sessions that were conducted at the Matsuya department store in Ginza,” and “got an enthusiastic response.” The educational textbook gives an explanation for which kind of leather is better suitable according to the type of goods like leather cloth, boots, and handbags. It includes also the different after care that needs to be provided which is a regular concern of the customer. Mr. Wakou said, “By expanding the correct knowledge of the leather, we aim to broad the market synergies. He also indicate that many consumers have gradually gained the knowledge about the leather and the leather market has been organized in the well balance with the both people who enjoy the aging of leather with the correct care, people who require the quick trend sense, and people who work in the creation of leather industry.

ビジネスという観点からも、中高級品である皮革製品にはチャンスが広がっている。JLIA では、中国・上海にショールームを開設（２月）し、メイド・イン・ジャパンのクオリティを現地のバイヤー、消費者に発信し、生産地から消費地と捉え中国市場展開への拠点と期待され、さらに都内にショールームを設置する計画もあり、国内外において常に新鮮な情報収集・提供が可能な環境を整える。海外へ出展する際には、事前に勉強会を開催し、また、当会に登録されているアドバイザーと企業のマッチングを図るなど、時間をかけ事前準備を整えた。JLIA が運営するウェブサイトでは、会員団体傘下企業の最新情報を発信するなど多彩なコンテンツを用意している。今後は、大手企業のOEM（相手先ブランド生産）を生産しながらも、個別企業のブランド戦略も注目されるのではないか。「数年前に実施した事業、継続してきた事業（研修・PR）等が、少しずつではあるが成果を上げ始めている。事業の内容・性質によって成果は様々であるが、常に着地点が見える計画を組んでいきたい。」と同氏は強調する。

From the viewpoint of business, mid-luxury leather products have a chance to be successful. The JILA will open a showroom on February 2012 in Shanghai, China and communicate the quality of Japanese leather product to local buyers, and consumers. In addition to the development plan in China, JLIA is planning to open a showroom in Tokyo for facilitating fresh information from domestic and international market. Mr. Wakou said, “We are going to open a showroom in February and show the Japanese products. China is already being viewed as a major market for the luxury sector. By introducing our own product, it will activate our member companies and we can also gain important information about their preferences”. Moreover JILA plans to open a showroom in the Tokyo area and create an environment to attend any foreign buyer who visits Japan. JILA is providing study session for the companies going to international trade show, and providing networking opportunity with registered advisors for assistance. Also, they promote the activation in-company by while they aim to enforce the relationship with a retail industry; they also try to match better human resource with leather manufacturers. The JLIA web site offers various kinds of contents like the newest information and databases of registered leather companies. From now on, many individual Japanese leather manufacturers will get more attentions on their marketing and branding while they are keep manufacturing OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing) products. In the future, many individual companies will get out of big companies’ OEM and start their own brand business. Mr. Wakou stressed, “The initiatives we have initiated in recent years such as training programs and marketing projects are making considerable achievements in the market. It varies by its contents and nature; however, we will keep making effort with feasible plans and initiation.”

社団法人日本皮革産業連合会の活動のひとつとして、皮革知識普及の為にレザーレクチャーブックの制作を行っております。革の種類や特徴、ケアやお手入れに関しての情報を掲載しています。

JAPAN LEATHER AND LEATHER GOODS INDUSTRIES ASSOCIATION

Among its activities, JLIA publishes the Leather Lecture Book for enhancement of public knowledge about leather. It provides good overview of various leather's characteristics and its care.

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