- roomservice Top
- Introduction
- Feature/Textile
- Interview
- Tradeshow
- Accessories
- Clothes
- Shops
- Other Information
- Showroom/Overseas
- Showroom/Japan
- PressOffice/Overseas
- PressOffice/Japan
Feature
 |
 |
 |
「テキスタイルをめぐる、国内産地の未来はどうなるのか」という論議から始まった座談会。しかし、構造的な問題を解決しない限り、国内メーカーの疲弊は収まりそうもない。ここでは、現場にかかわる責任者とテキスタイル事情に詳しいデザイナーの岩谷俊和に話を聞いた。うわべを繕う意見ではなく、業界の本質を突くインタビューとなった。
もう時間は待ってくれない。
Mr.A...「現在の産業構造を見ると、川上（産地）が儲からない仕組みになっている。最終製品（服）の回転率が速すぎて、川上、川中（問屋）はついていけない。生産スピードと量が求められ、独自性のあるテキスタイルを製作しても、問屋やアパレル企業が相手にしない。消費の冷え込みで衣料品価格も抑えられ、しわ寄せが産地にいっている。量と安価が求められれば、必然的にコストの安い海外生産へ傾く。もう時間は待ってくれない。あと２、３年で国内産地が消滅する可能性だってある」 |
Mr.B...「生産段階で大事なのは、ロットをまとめることだ。いくらラグジュアリーブランドへ販売しても、ロットが小さければビジネスにならない。一方で、たとえロットがまとまっても、コンバーター（問屋）が買い叩く構図も見える。反省すべき点は、コンバーターやアパレル企業にある。基本的に中小テキスタイルメーカーは、生地を売ることしかできない。現時点で自立を図るのは困難だろう」 |
Mr.A...「日本にファッションビジネスはあるんですか、と言いたい。さらに生産スピードが求められれば、織り、編み、染色、後加工で簡単なものが選ばれる。悪循環だ。苦労して素材の差別化をしても、アパレルから要らないと言われる。繊維専門紙では産地の体質改善を求める記事も出ているが、スピードと量を求める川下企業の責任が非常に大きい。その辺の産業構造が問題だ」 |
Mr.B...「一部の東京コレクションのデザイナーたちは“ありあわせ素材”を使っている。つまり、産地企業と相談して独自のテキスタイルを作り込んでいない。コレクションを見れば、ありあわせ素材と一目で分かる。寂しいかぎりだ。職人とディスカッションをする時間がないのかもしれないが、少なくとも自分の要望を産地企業に伝えるべきだ」 |
Mr.A...「混紡や編地変化など、日本の技術は世界で通用する。ただ、ＳＰＡ（製造小売り）企業やアパレルが、こういった素材を求めていない。かえって海外ブランドや外国人デザイナーが、日本の技術に興味を持っている」 |
Mr.B...「個性を理解するマーケットを国内に創り出さないと。アパレル企業も服が売れないからといって、企画を実需まで引き付け過ぎだ。店頭を見ていると個性やモノの価値がなくなってしまった。産地はオリジナル性のある素材を作り、アパレル企業はその個性を訴求する。ただ売ることだけではなく、互いの価値観を変えることが大切になっている」 |
A discussion session that began with the debate on “the future of domestic production areas in regard to textiles industry.” Domestic manufacturers will continue to exhaust unless structural issues are not dealt with. We talked to top company officer who are directly involved and Toshikazu Iwaya, a designer well acquainted with the textile world. We were able to discuss the true nature of this industry; it was never a mindless chatter.
Time won't wait for us
Mr.A...If you look at the current structure of the industry, you'll see that the system doesnʼt allow upstream (production areas) any room to profit. The turnover of final product (clothing) is too fast, and the upstream and midstream (wholesalers) just can't catch up. What's required are production speed and volume, so even if you create unique textiles, wholesalers and apparels businesses won't deal with you. The decline in consumption has also put a limit on apparel pricing, which is taking its toll on production areas. Demands for mass production and cheap pricing will inevitably lead production over to foreign production areas where the cost is cheap. Time won't wait for us; in fact Japanese domestic production areas may even disappear within 2 or 3 years. |
Mr.B...It's vital to gather lots during production. It doesn't matter what sort of luxury brand you are selling, you can't do business if the lots are small. On the other hand, even if you gather all the lots, the converter (wholesalers) may even drive a hard bargain with you and get it all at a very cheap price. To be regretted is wholesalers and apparel businesses. Basically, medium and small-sized textile manufacturers can only sell fabric. I think it's difficult for them to be independent at this point. |
Mr.A...I would like to know if there is such thing as fashion business in Japan. If production speed is further required, then only simple weaving, knitting, dyeing and post-refining will be opted. It's a vicious cycle. Even if you make all the effort to differentiate materials, apparel businesses turn you down and say it's unnecessary. Although there have been articles in a trade journal for textiles discussing the improvement of production areas, the lower stream businesses have an extremely great responsibility for their part in demanding for speed and volume. That's where things go wrong in the structure of the industry. |
Mr.B...Some designers of the Tokyo Collection just use what they have on hand. That means, they don't try and create unique textiles by discussing with production area businesses. If you look at the Collection you can tell that many items are made from bits and pieces of what was available on hand to designers. It's really sad. Perhaps they don't have the time to discuss with craftsmen, but they should at least voice their wish with production area businesses. |
Mr.A...Japan's textile technologies such as mixed spinning and stitch variation are now world-class. Despite that, SPAs (Specialty store retailers of Private label Apparel) and apparel businesses are not demandingsuch materials. Instead, it's foreign brands and designers that show interest in Japanʼs technologies. |
Mr.B...We need to create a domestic market that understands character. Even if the reason was because products don't sell, apparel businesses have still gone much too far in focusing their business planning on actual demands. If you check out fashion stores these days you see that there are no more items with character and worth. Production areas are to create original materials, while apparel businesses should request for such materials to have character. It's not about just selling, it's important that both sides help change the other side's sense of value. |
ニュースや最新情報をお送り致します。バイヤー、ファッションエディター、スタイリストなどの業界関係者の方、是非ご登録ください！
We send new information and news.If you are fashion editor, stylist, buyer or in fashion bussiness, Please register.
